This weekend, Kirst, Jo, Ashley and myself headed off to Geumsansa temple in Gyeonggi-do province with Adventure Korea ( and 26 other curious foreigners) to experience first-hand the life of a monk for a night and two days.
We had to meet in Seoul at Hongkik University subway stop at 9am for a 4 hour journey into the heart of Korean country land-away from the hustle and bustle that the bug city exudes!
We arrived around 2pm and were given our garb for the weekend- Monk's clothing- a tan coloured jacket and pants. Fortunately, we were allowed to wear a few layers underneath otherwise we may well have just frozen! Off to our room for the weekend we were asked to change before receiving a briefing on the rules of the temple and given a crash course in meditation, bowing and the correct stance for walking.
Then, onto making of Lotus Lanterns. We regarded ourselves as experts, as we had been there done that at the Lantern fest in Seoul in May, when we had made lotus flowers. Nevertheless, second time round- it was just as enjoyable if not more, as this time the leaves were alredy folded and stuck and we all agreed that was the most tricky part the previous time. We were given a selection of colours-pink, red, yellow and green to decorate as we saw fit. The great designs and patterns that emerged were wonderful! :) 2 hours later we all hung up our lanterns and moved onto gonging of the bell-by which this stage it was almost dark. The bell is gonged to wake up the land, sea and sky creatures. Everyone did this with much gusto as one of the monk's counted methodically " han, deul, set, net, daseot, yoseot, ilgop (GONG)!
Off then to have dinner in silence. :) Yes, silence. This was especially difficult for the Americans (kidding) and we were told that you eat all you serve yourself. There is no wasting in a Buddhist temple. Kimchi, kimchi flavoured pineapple, beans, some sweet potatoe ( all veggie stuff)! :) It was suprisingly delicious! And then bakc in the freezing cold to witness a chanting session with the monks in the main temple.
The tranquility and serenity engulfed this temple-it was wonderful to be there with no other tourists maddly flashing their cameras. This is what a temple should always be like I decided.
Then, a question session with the monk, who's name directly transalted to STONE HEAD, we all thought this was funny and so did he! :) happiness and contentedness surrounded him like a bubble. He seemed very at peace. We were given free -reign at asking any questions we wished. And found out some interesting things: one needs to study for 15 years to be a monk, you shave your head so that you have no desire to be beautiful, that our monk had a cellphone and thingks Steven Jobs is the coolest guy ever. :) This was served with green tea and some pear and red bean treats.
Then, bed time baby at 9:30 for what was going to be a busy and exhausting next day. :)
UP AT 3AM, after sweating profusely from the jolly hot underfloor heating, we padded up-now 7 layers I counted. As Oros men we shuffled all the way to the main temple to do some chanting and 108 bows. We were explained the night before that 108 derives from the ears, eyes, nose, mouth, body and mind (all the sufferings in the world ) . So 6X6=36 in the past, present and future (x3)= 108! And let me just tell you-I never know how painful it was to do so many. My legs and bum are cramping today because of it. Then, a traditional breakfast ceremony followed. This took 2, 5 hours and was a meticulous process of bowl sorting and cleaning and water pouring and food serving and eating of all the morcels, so that there was nothing left (all done in silence). The funniest moment occured when one boy opposite me was given a hot pepper from the soup and the monk said he was required to eat it. He couldn't possibly as even one little nibble made his eyes water. The lovely tour guide Mia then quickly came aroudn with a tissue and while the monk was facing away, she wrapped it up and disposed of it. We were all in fits of giggles-silent ones! By this time it was only about 7am.
Then we did some community worked and swept all the leaves from around the courtyard adn then swept the main temple area too. I was delighting in the monk's optimism and enjoyment of this task-he was refreshing. Then, some Korean tradtional bang ( bread ) with red bean inside. (YUM!!!) My favourite! ANd then lastly my favourite the bead-making. We were instructed to make a necklace of 108 beads by bowing. After each bow we had to string a bead onto the string. This exercise took about 45minutes and we were allowed to position ourselves anywhere in any temple in Geumsansa. I found a little removed temple and positioned myself in the sunlight alongside a chanting monk. It was quite the scene-this very solemn Korean monk chanting and gonging his instrument, while this white girl bowed and strung beads on her string. This white girl thourougly enjoyed the experience and decided each bead would represent somehtign to me- I prayed for people, gave thanks, repented and sent up prayers of wishes to whoever was listening. I now have a necklace filled with beads of memories.
Exhausted we had lunch and finally set off at 1pm back into the hub of everyday life. When bakc on the subway, some elderly folk were having a fat discussion about our lanterns and decided Jo's was the best, mine second and then Ashley's. He was very concenred about something and was pointing and motioning to an elderly women about it. She was just giggling while he continued to mumble and grumble. Sometimes I really wish I understood the language better!
And today, I woke up to a world covered in natural icing sugar! Yes, we have had our first proper snowfall in Chuncheon and I am as happy as Larry! The intrigue and novelty of snow will never grow old for a South African child. Tonight, I will head back to Seoul for a concert of Jonsi with Chung! Emma introduced me to Sigur ros and he is the main guy! I am so very excited indeed! What a wonderufl start to the week: cramping legs and bum, snow-covered everything and a concert! And now, a robots and alien game with my boys for revision before their exams!
Adios
JO-teacher-monk wannabe-snow lover-Jonsi-groupie!
