Dalian, China: A city of contrast!

I wondered for a while how I would capture my experience of my 5 day trip in China. I initially wanted to give a run-down of each day and what we did! And although perhaps more informative of our time spent, I rather decided that a description of the paradoxical world of it all would be far more interesting! SO here goes:


Rough and Smooth

China is and always will be a little rough around the edges-it is the driving force of their nation and economy-the spirit of 'keep pushing forward'that will make them the future super power of the world. This is not limited to the way they work, but also includes shoving at train stations and walking with a purpose on the street even if it is across a a 6 way lane traffic.

Yet, this city was somehow inexcusably smooth and chic. Perhaps it is the hip fashion or the fascinating well-planned squares or perhaps it is the immaculate gardens that resemble those in the classic "Alice in Wonderland".


Bustling and relaxed

The city gets going from about 5am when taxis hoot ferociously at one another as they change lanes with a profound confidence. There is action all over! People are constantly on the streets whatever time of day. Lots to see and do as well, so of course we were jumping in taxis here and there and everywhere soaking up as much as we could! From Xing Hai Square to remember the return of Hong Kong to China, to an amateur Art museum, to the Russian district, to a derelict temple visit that amounted to a never-ending hike in what seemed like the heart of China to a boat ride along the coast from Tiger beach to a ride in a chair lift over Labour Park to the tower with a view of this crazy, charming city.

However, the North as I was told is far more relaxed, cheerful and light-hearted than the South-and this was evident. The taxi drivers had fat conversations with Chen including one man describing how unbelievably hot he was as he was wearing 3 layers of pants! Another woman jokingly hit her husband over the head as " he obviously did not have enough sleep the previous night, as his eyes were crusted over!"

Old and New

The architecture strikes one immediately as being different- I had to catch myself several times from thinking that I was in Europe or Japan rather than China. The unique history of Dalian with occupation by Britain, Russia and Japan over the last 250 years is clearly evident. A magic wand seemed to have swished over the city with sprinkles of different fairy dust magically leaving a trail of the old influences.

But, once again it was mod and new and not for one second run-down. Skyscrapers that seemed to shoot up into the air were everywhere and the pristine Sky rail across the entire coast was top-class.

Industrial and Scenic

Surrounding the city, there seemed to be huge industrial development with regards to construction of apartments, factories, bridges and huge mines. The eerie mood as we transversed the peninsula was well captured by the looming smog that hung above us.

The previous day -nonetheless- was paradoxical! Filled with sunshine and fresh air we walked and caught a taxi along the 30km stretch along the Yellow Sea that can be compared to the French Riviera. Tres magnifique!


Filthy and Beautiful

When I mean filthy-I dont mean a piece of litter here or there-I mean just plain rotten and filthy-old Fiat Passat taxis have definitely seen better days and the toilets shall not even be discussed for the sake of someone gagging. But also somehow the filth gives it an edge of crude charm. One of my best moments was walking through a back alley to stumble upon -quite luckily- the genuine Russian style buildings that are filled by none other than plebs. The most enchanting, mesmerizing establishments with quaint verandas, detailed brickwork and alluring windows occupied by the very poor of the poor.


Local and Foreign

Firstly, this point is significant as I travelled with an authentic Chinese-well sort of-Chen was born in a tiny “village” (ie a city of a few million people) next to the Yangtze River and hence refers to himself as "Chinese Peasant" and insists I be called "Russian princess". Growing up most of his life in the West (England and Texas, USA), we have great conversations about the differences and the shared humanitarian characteristics (such as humour) of the two worlds. His humble beginnings and appreciation for each new day, the fascination with almost everything- (important or seemingly insignificant to the average man ), a beautiful understanding of the world and life in general and his heart of pure gold makes one easily forget his prestigious Ivy League schooling in the States. He greets China with both a tender warmth and curiosity-as one can imagine both as a local and a foreigner in his own land. For me as a complete foreigner and a Russian-looking-one at that, I was quite relieved he was able to make sense of what seems like such tiny nuances in sound and tone in the Mandarin language.

(Aside: I did receive a basic lesson though: Mandarin has 4 basic tones for every sound which makes it such a TRICKY language to learn: 1=flat, 2=has an ending like that of an English question, 3= is a an overemphasized diphthong and 4=a sound like an English exclamation. So for instance South Africa or "nam fei" is read as nam (1=flat) fei (2=question) when using the tones.

Secondly, the cuisine we indulged in was both local and foreign. Locally, we had some delectable meals-my most favourite indeed was at remote seafood restaurant that clearly only locals frequent. Situated off a dust road in the gamadooloos, with a magnificent view of the ocean and mountains, the recommendation of the taxi driver could not have been better. Abalone, tempura crabs legs, shrimp, fish and veggie mix and the local black lion beer went down fabulously!Foreign meals included a rip-off shocking Italian meal that made us giggle at the value of money. One tenth of the price would have certainly got us something more tasty on the streets!

My favourite foreign meal was at the Japanese restaurant situated in the Russian styled Dalian hotel. A very famous fish Shabu Shabu and of course sushi (authentic style) was devoured, as we were mesmerized with the delightfully expressive, talkative waitress. I was fascinated with the intricate patterns of our authentic Japanese teapot on the table and you can imagine my joy when Chen decided to ask the waitress if he could buy it! Only in China do you walk out of a restaurant with a full belly and a used, beautiful teapot. :)


As one can see the polar opposite of anything you say about China can still hold true: I think that's what makes it such a fascinating destination! However, I believe that the heart of the country does lie in the soul of the people who make this contradictory place something enchanting... Sadly, I think westerners who cannot speak the language or at least (like me) have an interpreter, miss this charm of China. My trip was enriching, refreshing and definitely memorable.

China is truly a wondrous place!

Bisous

JO