History and Culture with a backdrop of autumn colours!

Today, I went with my dear friend, Sun (my korean teacher/ more of a friend than that rather impersonal title) and her friend (and now my friend-Sora) on a cultural and historical adventure in the heart of Korea, a.k.a "the middle of no-where". It required an early morning start, meeting at the bus station at 6:30am. Then a connecting bus to Wonju and a transfer to Yeonju where we met up with Sora (who is Sun's friend from her days in India). After some bargaining with the taxi driver we were finally on the way to Seosuwon at about 11am.

Seosusuwon- an intellectuals' paradise-an old scholarly village where the elite were sent during the Joseon dynasty (built in the 15th century) to further their quest for knowledge. Located in the beautiful paradise that happens to be Sun's mom's hometown, one can just imagine the ideas and thoughts floating in the minds of these young men who were lucky, privileged and rich enough to attend such an institution. Old Korean style buildings were sporadically dispersed specially designed for poetry recital, reading philosophy, story-telling, painting and singing ancient folksongs. There were also sleeping quarters with traditional Korean heating systems, stoves, kimchi fridges and soju ceramic pots. With a peaceful stream weaving it's way through the village added to the magnificent autumn colours all around, I was certain that these scholars were in a location that rivalled the steps and view from Jameson plaza at UCT.

By this stage, I was ravenous!!! Luckily, after another short bus-ride, we landed up at Buseoksa temple- along with another 2million Koreans! We quickly found a seat at the nearest Shikdang(restaurant) and were not able to order anything other than the Bibimbap, as they were too busy apparently to conceive of making any other dish, and so I could picture the poor chefs in the kitchen churning out the fried eggs, veggies and rice repeatedly for 5 hours that are needed for the delectable bibimbap (one of the only dishes in Korea I might add that is vegetarian). Monks are supposedly veggies which is hard to believe in such a carnivorous nation. We were also treated with a potato pancake and a delectable soy sauce, chilli concoction that I couldn't keep my hands off. Then, the trek began! Little did I realise we were on one, but luckily the beautiful yellow-golden, burnt-orange and crimson-red leaves kept me distracted. The scrumptious apples and the adjumas selling them under brightly coloured umbrellas was also a scene to behold. We tried them on the way back down-indeed delicious. So, the temple that we eventually got to after climbing through a series of four large gates, was magnificent-something you imagine when you think of_the FAR EAST! Just so idyllic with a backdrop of warm vibrant colours. The Buddhist pagoda was erected in the Silla Dynasty in the 7th century and the Temple (being the oldest, wooden temple in Korea) was built in the 13th century in the Goryeon Dynasty. With her wealth of knowledge, Sun informed Sora and myself that this temple was unique in Buddhist culture as the temple and pagoda were misaligned. The temple was facing the west supposedly towards the more enlightened Buddha in the west (India) who believes that all humans are capable of becoming a buddha in their own right. We then walked up to the temple right at the top of the mountain showing Uinsang-the monk who founded the temple. The story goes that he stuck his cane into the soil and it turned into a bush that is now encaged in a mancky chicken coop. The temple's name is called Busoeksa named after the floating rock that is mysteriously ledged alongside.

After that, we managed to dodge the ever-gorwing number of tourists and head to dinner in a neighbouring town. Sun treated us to a feast for kings of beef, and about 25 side dishes with everything from fried ginseng to mash potatoes, to lovely leafy veggies. We had an interesting dicussion about the conventions of Korean life still especially with regards to men and their expectations of women. I passed out on the bus ride home after a very enjoyable day filled with joyous autumn leaves, stories and a refreshed sense of "oh right I am living in Asia"-the asian exploration.

Bisous
JO